Journey to Tilicho Trek (तिलिचो) - Beginning
Beginning of Yatra !
My friend Bishal Gurung already made plan to visit any places at Himalaya. While he was in abroad he used to say we must have to go for trip in Dashain vacation somewhere like Manang in mountain area. We all said yes to him because we can’t deny him. We said yes to him for trip but we didn’t finalize which place to go. We did discuss on online group chat. We list out so many places we talked, we fought that’s another funniest situation we had. So many times we thought that this can’t be happen. We will cancel at last hour. So nobody prepared for trip no one purchased any gears to trip. We were neutral situation. We asked each other what is going on? Nobody answered yes we are going. One day Bishal came to Kathmandu and ask me to go buy some Trekking materials and we went to Kalapathar Thamel. But still i was confused are we going? He didn’t found anything matching to him. We came down stairs without purchasing anything. And we saw another shop and we visit that store. Finally he is starting to choose matching Trekking pants to him. And i was like yes we are going surely. I was 90% sure about that and i also purchased one pant. And one interesting incident there he called Sagar Malla our friend. Bishal asked him to do you need anything? Sagar replied yes what you are buying please buy 1 set all for me and show me on video call. Bishal started to angry and cut the phone call. I was laughing to much and i called Sagar. He also amazed what just happened ! Bishal called from his side and asked and answering yes to him he started to angry. We laughed so much in shop. I showed Trekking gears to Sagar and he select by video call. And one another funny moments is both are selecting same products same color. But both wanted to make different. Finally they bought
1. 40 ltr. Bag-pack for Rs. 2000/-
2. Trekking pant for Rs. 1000/-
3. Stick for Rs. 400/-
After confirming we are going to trip. Then i started to making plan and i ask them to include my wife also in trip because she will be alone at home in Dashain this may be not happy for her. Boys accept my request and i told her to get prepared fro trip. Because of her i felt easier to prepare myself. Because i didn’t need anything to do all things she did. She bought another warm Trekking pant with fur for me and My friend Naran Gharti also. Girls are very smarter then boys in this case she purchased 60 ltr. Backpack for Rs. 950/- we purchased 40 ltr. Bag for Rs. 2,000/- that the difference between Girls and Boys. We are almost ready to go trip. We went to village home to celebrate Dashain. Our Trekking stick was on outside of Bag. We felt every people are watching us and we thought what are they thinking about us we are going to celebrate Dashain or Trekking tours? This thought came to us because it’s our very first time to us with Trekking stick.
After Dashain Tika and visiting all relatives we started our journey from 2 days letter of Tika.
DAY 1
Start – Besisahar – Octopus Jharna – Chamche Jharna – Chame – Manang Valley – Pisang – Humde – Bhraka – Manag – Khansar
B.s. 2081-06-29 ( 15 October, 2024 AD)
We wakes up and get ready early morning. We started to gather. We settled my bike at safe place because we are not returning back before 3/4 days. Bishal Gurung, Sagar Malla, Preety Ale and me Pradip AleMgr was ready. We started our journey around 5 AM. Naran joined us from few ahead. Our group of 5 persons is heading to Chambas.
This is half hour far from our house we walked to there but very sad thing is bus to Beshisahar isn’t coming because of early morning. From Beshisahar to another place like Kathmandu, Chitwan is leaving but non of any buses from other side are reaching to us. We had to wait for around 1 hour at Chambas. Finally we got one bus we didn’t want to miss it actually we are waiting for micro hiace but at this time bus also ok to us.
I was never been ahead from Baishjagar, Paudi. I went once Rainaskot which is separate ways from Paudi gate. And also i have been to Thanithan mai Temple which is leaving from Baishjagar. I saw so many places from window of bus which i have already listened name like Bhotewodar, Sundarbazar, Udipur, Satbishe. And so many local stores also because i do printing jobs of Bhotewodar Sewa Samaj Kathmandu. Thank you Shreekanta Sapkota sir, Jyoti Sapkota sir for giving me opportunity to do serve to you. They used to collect ads for calendar print and from there i already known some local stores, Schools, hospital, clinic etc. That is awesome moment for me i felt like i already been there.
We were reached Beshisahar bazar after long journey on bus. Actually distance from Chambas to Beshisahar is only 30 to 35 KM but bus was stopped at every points to pick up more passengers. Bus left us at starting of Beshisahar Bazar, Sera. From there we started to walk towards Manang vehicle station which is at last point of bazar. This was my and my wife’s first time visit to Beshisahar we enjoyed this walk also. But Beshisahar bazar is really long. We withdraw some cashes there. ATM gave me very fresh and new cash this also helped us to minimize expenses we loved cash and we hesitate to spend. Do you also feel same like us ? Or we are stingy?
I will suggest you to carry some cash also. There online pay also available but most of the places mobile network is not working. Wifi also very slow may be because of so many users. We are went in very peak season. Actually this Dashain Tihar vacation is peak season to this place everybody gets long holidays and they make plan for trip like us. Other time Nepali tourists are not comes only foreigners comes to visit.
At Beshisahar we bought some caps, gloves, trousers and my friends suggest us to get Trekking shoes. We are saying sports shoes is okay but they started to forcing us. We found Goldstar showroom there and we visit store and purchased two pair of Trekking shoes for me and Preety. We request to shopkeeper to keep our old shoes safe and we will collect while returning and he also agreed. I want to say thanks to him. I am suggesting you to not to carry unnecessary things because this makes bag heavy we have to carry ourselves minimum 2 days. Goldstar shopkeeper brother asked us have we had lunch and had we booked vehicle to Manang, Khangsar? We said no he tell us to go to Namaste Thakali kitchen there we will find good food. This is near also from Shop and Jeep station. Brother also called jeeps for us and gave number of jeep driver. We went to restaurants and we had lunch. Food was tasty and affordable also we paid approx Rs. 300/- per person we had veg rice because we recently celebrated Dashain. No one wants to eat non-veg so we don’t know what is the cost of non-veg.
After lunch we called jeep driver he said jeep is coming from Manang and he will back with us we may be late you can’t blame him for late reaching to Khangsar. We are confused what to do and one agent hearing our problems while convincing another table’s guest. He started to convince us also. He said that no seats are available we have to travel in carrier. We refused to him to travel in carrier. He also said we can’t get any vehicles this is peak season all 40/45 jeeps are already gone yesterday and today morning also. They are not coming back as fast as and they can’t go back same day. We have no chance other than carrier and he also said transportation fare rate is Rs. 3000/- per person from Beshisahar to Khangsar but he will give Rs. 500/- per person discount. At that point we almost agreed him with the name of discount. We asked how long from here to Khangsar. He said 7/8 hours. Then we changed our mind. 7/8 hours standing for Rs. 500/- is not worthy. Boys started to search other vehicles hotel owners came to us and asked have you booked jeep? We said no he also started to search jeep for us. He started to call Jeep drivers who is going towards Manang. At that time me and Preety going to buy sunglasses. I am recommending to carry sunglasses. If you have polarized glass this is best otherwise normal sunglasses also good. Snow at mountain shines great white this makes our eye drizzling while watching directly. And path’s stone and sand also shine.
Hotel owner managed jeep for us. Boys are loading bag on jeep while we return from shop. We want to thanks Namaste Thakali Kitchen. We are very lucky to have Mr. Shresthaman Thapa Dai as driver. He is very kind and humble person he very helps us to make tripe awesome and fun. He is not only driver for us he was also a guide to us. He guided whole trip and he introduced us every places on the way. He said that he would had been already gone to Manang that day his jeep gave him trouble at morning he have to visit garage twice and he thought that he will not going that day. After getting lots of calls by locals from up (villages at way of Manang) for goods. He was ready to go and we are able to catch him before other met him. Our 5 person team occupied seats. But one old lady requesting him again and again for Chame. He said yes to her and he settled her with our team. Preety and I was at front seat but 3 boys have to compromise till chame. Old lady is started to talk on phone in her mother tongue language with loud voice. We all felt irritating for a while. Some policeman returning back from vacation also get on jeep they are sitting back on carrier. If we agreed to sit on carrier we have to walk on police check post. We will got to see view from carrier this is one advantage but 7/8 hours standing by holding bars is very hard.
Map Route of Kathmandu to Besisahar
Transportation
Let’s Breakdown public transport availability. Suppose we are heading from Kathmandu because most of people are live in Kathmandu. This the capital city of Nepal. Every international tourist comes Kathmandu first because International airport is here so lets starts from here. From Kathmandu bus park we have to catch a bus for Besishar for Micro (Hiace) we have to get ticket from in front of Lotse mall. Ticket price will be Rs. 700 to 1000. Price are subjected to season. Distance to Besishar is around 175 KM. You will reach there in around 6-7 hr.
Note : If you are not able to reach before 1-2 PM I will suggest to not go ahead same day. You may rest at Besishar Bazar and Next day after having lunch you can proceed to journey ahead. Because From Besishar to Manag or Khangsar we need to travel more than 8 hrs all the way is off road with stones and muds. Way is uphill and narrow we can’t drive for speed. If you are self driving be careful way is more dangerous. If you planning to go on your own vehicle check your condition of vehicle and fuel level. If you are going on four wheeler then make sure your vehicle is 4×4 power wheeler if not i don’t think you can make it. If you planning to go with bus or hiace you will create world record.
Journey from Besishar
From Besisahar we started our journey to Khangsar. Through Khudi, Bhulbhule, Ngadi. We are planning to stay night at Khangsar. I ask to Driver do you know any hotels in Khangsar? We don’t have booked yet. He said yes and made calls for hotels. He said book room for 5 persons and gave me phone to talk. I confirmed room and veg Khana set for us he is offering Yak sukuti but i said now make veg khana what about non-veg we will confirm you by coming there. Guys started to calculate category of Yak. Yak is buff or beef ? Yak is in Nepali Chaurigai. Gai is cow, Cow is beef and we finalize No to beef and we ordered chicken.
Till Ngadi road is good Pitched. Original journey starts from there. We entered through tunnel ways first time. This is may be first tunnel way of Nepal. We saw Sino hydro power. Then real road, real trip, real adventure is just started from there. We started to realize Rs. 3,000/- per person is satisfying. I think newly driver can’t drive in this road. Actually this is not road this is path to heaven. Not that way what you just thought. Ahead from Chame is actually heaven. What a view ! What a scenery! I wish i could stop here and there and everywhere i just really loved. Again time if i got a chance to go i will definitely go to till Manang. From there to Tilicho top is i have think once say yes to no. Tilicho is not for everyone it’s very hard.
In-fact we had underestimated Tilicho Trek. We thought only 4919 m height. Not cold season and most funny is we are villagers. We are not villagers we used to villagers we never walk even for 30 minutes a day. How can we thought that we can easily concord Tilicho, really stupidity. Himalaya shows us our reality.
Author's Opinion
First of all to my sincere readers I want to say sorry. I couldn’t make it in one single page. My planning to express my experiences in day wise post but its very hard to write and I think to read so many worlds in single also not a interesting. So i am asking to end this post here. I will continue this in Next post.
Take a rest now …
I will full mention itinerary also keep reading. Thank You !
